Fiji's Heavenly Safe Havens
by Ed Rampell
In this age of high anxiety, vacationers seeking secure overseas destinations can visit Fiji's heavenly safe havens. A British colony until 1970, English is spoken in Fiji, a South Pacific nation across the International Dateline, 10-hours' flight from L.A., where dollars still go far. With 330 islands, Fiji is Oceania's most multi-ethnic country, with Melanesians, Polynesians, Hindu and Muslim Indians. I felt no anti-Americanism and protected at privately-patrolled isle enclaves. During Fiji's three coups since 1987, most events occurred on the southeastern coast of Viti Levu, the main island, in Suva, the capital. Tourists, I was reassured, were unmolested. There's also reportedly been no SARS.
Fiji has resorts scattered on tiny islets throughout its archipelagoes, but after a trans-Pacific flight arriving in the wee hours, they're too remote. Sonaisali Island Resort is the nearest property on a separate islet to Nadi International Airport, on Viti Levu's west coast, and is a convenient getaway for beginning sojourns. Sonaisali's dock is 30-ish minutes' drive from Nadi; there, a hotel boat crosses the lagoon to reception. Sonaisali's motto, appropriately, is: "So near... yet so far."
Sonaisali offers many activities - some free, such as Hobie Cats and windsurfing, others cost extra, such as scuba and horseback riding, a good fun way to see the isle. My stallion and I cut a swath through tall grass, sugarcane, and cantered through surf. At Sunset Point, we glimpsed traditional thatched bures (huts) used for resort functions, from conference barbecues to firewalking. Sonaisali consists of up-to-date bures, with modern conveniences such as aircon, ceiling fans, and phones (but no TVs). My equestrian promenade also revealed where Sonaisali's building what resort manager Lucas Chanter called "the first paintball field in the South Pacific." Sonaisali also offers "in-activities" - stretching out in seaside hammocks was the favorite pastime of many guests recuperating from the rat race.
A Fijian staffer translated Sonaisali as "at the mouth of the river." Waves lapping on black sand beaches weren't high enough for bodysurfing; the murky ocean's bottom was spongy. Jet and water skiing, snorkeling excursions, pool bar, spa/salon, etc., may prevent ennui from afflicting longer term, active guests. After two days, rested up, I was ready to move on.
Getting to Plantation Island Resort in the Mamanuca island chain west of Nadi required a half hour drive to Denarau Marina and hour-ish voyage via Malolo Cat, a large, comfortable catamaran. There's also short flights via seaplane or puddle jumpers. Now, if you think humans would fly with arms outstretched, you've watched too many Superman reruns.
According to Plantation Divers' instructor Apenisa Vetaukula, the correct way to soar while scuba diving is folding one's arms upon your chest, kicking gently with fins. Thusly, divers glide, especially with currents moving your way. Initially, it feels unnatural to angle one's body face down, floating through the fishy firmament of swarming iridescent fish. Tiny goldfish swish by, followed by Sunflower Reef's dazzling array of tropical fish and coral. Ape breaks bread for divers to feed our finned friends, who swim up to your fingertips, nibbling crumbs, grazing divers. Touching the marine life in their natural habitat is an otherworldly, inter-species experience; I laughed so hard water filled my mask.
My 40-minute plunge was one of the best experiences of my life. Fiji's scuba-topia is year-round, with excellent visibility. According to Ape, there's shark feeding at the Pinnacle and Supermarket, where divers sit in horseshoe formation on the bottom, photographing the dive master feeding Bronze whaler, reef, black and white tip sharks. Gotham City, appropriately, has bat fish.
Ape provides complete PADI certification and also offers Snuba, which combines snorkeling and scuba. With masks and regulators, Snuba lets users descend 30 feet sans tanks for half an hour. Regulators are linked to long hoses attached to rafts with a source of air floating on the surface. Snorkeling equipment's free of charge; seven kilometers of beaches encircle 600 acre Malolo Lai Lai. Strolling around this isle reveals a landing strip and Musket Cove resort.
Dining at a large beachside bure includes a buffet of delicious, traditional Fijian cuisine, as a string band plays. Clad in grass skirts, boar's tooth necklaces, leafy bracelets and headbands, brandishing cannibal weapons, Plantation's hotel staff performs mekes - ancestral dances. Plantation's manager, Patrick Wong, praised "interaction between visitors and staffers. Many return because of the staff; we have 25% repeat business."
Back at Denarau, I embarked on a two-hour voyage aboard South Seas Cruises, a spectacular Mamanuca-meandering catamaran commute, with exquisite views of islets in lime green and cerulean seas. Castaway is fifth stop on this island hopper to resorts dotting the archipelago. Though named before the movie starring Tom Hanks, Moduriki - where Cast Away was filmed - is seen from Castaway Island.
My thatched, whitewashed bure sat on an enticing beach. 15 feet from shore, thousands of six-inch long silvery sardines splish-splashed. Like a mad dash of rushing spermatozoa, they burst forth in a heady ejaculation. They seemed calibrated to my movements, scurrying away en masse whenever I moved. None nicked me; I was unable to touch the mercurial marine life.
Nearer the reef, snorkeling amidst clusters of coral and sea life - including a moray eel - was clear and ebullient. Once, I used a spyboard - a sort of glass paneled boogie board, which enables maritime espionage. A moored motorboat's name captured Castaway's insouciance: Cheeky Monkey.
PART TWO: Dining...
|
Printer
Friendly Version